Food: Dach & Sons

It’s official: the humble burger’s gone mainstream. Or middle-class, at the very least. No longer a guilty end-of-night pleasure while you wait for the nightbus and try not to make eye contact with undesirables, this piece of meat is now the main event.

Perhaps it’s a consequence of the recession and the shift to more austere, informal menu choices. Perhaps it was a secret desire we always harboured, while professing to prefer sushi. Whatever you believe, you can’t fail to move in London without falling on your feet at one of these joints: MEATliquor, Dirty Burger and now, Dach & Sons.

Located on the gold-lined streets of Hampstead, Dach & Sons provides a relaxed but predictable experience.  The style’s pretty formulaic (kitchen roll on tables, exposed brickwork, vintage adverts). The seats are downright annoying: teeny circular dots on an adjustable, moving spoke. The food is…good enough.

A sample of popcorn with a smoky bone marrow flavouring was interesting – yes, I get that hipsters love popcorn at the moment, but, it’s all a bit meh to me.  Sweet potato fries were chunky, unctuous and delish. The burgers (cooked as requested, medium/rare) were completely overpowered by cheese, a layer of which had been draped over the meat like a stiffling carpet.

Unattentive staff (who forgot to bring a diet Coke, despite being asked twice) added nothing to the experience.

I’m a big fan of informal dining and simple food. I can also see that you don’t need to reinvent the wheel when a trend works. I can even stomach the whole no-bookings rule that places like this follow. But Dach & Sons isn’t offering anything better than the other burger joints around town. It just thinks it is.

The deets: www.dachandsons.com/, 68 Heath Street, Hampstead, London, NW3 1DN. Burgers around £9. Sides £4.

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